Sunday, January 31, 2010

Tabuleiro, Minas Gerais - Brazil

Tabuleiro
It was the most difficult 2 miles I have ever walked, from the park entrance to the waterfalls, the beautiful 1000 foot high waterfall over a vast cliff face into the gorge below. But the walk was well worth it, the ground is littered with crystals and there are many pools on the way, not to mention the breathtaking views of the cliffs and waterfall the whole way down.

Tabuleiro is about 100 miles from Belo Horizonte. The second half of the way, a winding road took us to a quintessential Minas mountain town called Conceica do Mato Dentro. Another 12 miles and we arrived at the small village with the same name as the falls – Tabuleiro, populated with about 20 houses of local folks who garden, take care of cows and chickens, make cheese, perform in the local church choir, and make their own cachaca, the local killer distilled sugar cane spirit.

Tabuleiro had such a calming energy and it was so lush and beautiful that Peter and I seriously considered staying for a while. My brother Henrique, his son Rodrigo and a friend, Dea also came along, and they had to return to Belo Horizonte. After the hike, we were all exhausted and sore everywhere. We stopped at “Repestre,”a local restaurant for a delicious meal. The choices of white, blond and dark local cachacas on the menu sounded very good, and after I tried all of them, my body pains were gone. But the following day I had a huge hangover and besides muscle aches, my head and my stomach were suffering.

We headed back to Belo Horizonte after breakfast and were home by mid afternoon, in time for my sister Ines' barbecue birthday party. The parties at my mom's house don't seem to end...

Monday, January 18, 2010

Inhotim, Brumadinho - Brazil

Inhotim
It rained during almost all month of December, so when the rain stopped, and all the holiday parties were over, we decided to explore the area around Belo Horizonte.

I was pleasantly surprised to find a great Modern Art Center in the city of Brumadinho, 37 miles from Belo Horizonte. Peter, my friend Bya and I went there through the back roads, enjoying the beautiful views of rolling hills, the green in them alive and vibrant. All the rain of the previous month woke up every atom in the trees and grass and I felt like I could talk to that sea of greenness, because of the aliveness I saw in them.

Inhotim is very unique, with a similar concept as the Getty Museum in Los Angeles, in the sense of mixing art and galleries with nature, but I dare say that Inhotim was even more interesting and dramatic than the Getty. It is 3000 acres of gardens, and 16 galleries, in an area where there was only small dairy farms in the past. In some areas, we can still see old farm houses, but as Inhotim expands its art shows, and galleries, the old buildings either disappear or morph into something else. Currently, there are 18 new galleries under construction.

The lagoons where black swans glided majestically, weaved through carefully manicured foliage and some ancient trees. Some of those trees did not resist the weight of time and succumbed to form beautiful large benches around the gardens. I did not waste any time laying down on them to rest and receive the great earth energy coming from them.

The art was also very diverse, and in most of the cases, consisted of installations. The highlight for me was the "Sound Pavilion" by Doug Aitken, a circular glass structure with a hole 200 yards deep in the center where sounds from the earth could be heard through special microphones. Mathew Barney's domes were also incredible, with an enormous truck inside, extracting a tree from earth. The images were reflected hundreds of times on every facet of the large dome. I am sorry I don't have any pictures of that as photos were not allowed there. In terms of architecture, Adriana Varejao's gallery was by far the most imposing and I am sure the most expensive. She is the wife of the owner of the museum, Bernardo Paez, so in a way, it is understandable.

It was a great day walking through the gardens, looking at beautiful and interesting art with a break at midday to eat the delicious buffet lunch at the main restaurant. When the rain started, it was already 4:30 pm, closing time. We took the same back road home, dropped Bya off, played with her dog Lulu for a while, enjoyed a dark beer together, and drove to my mother's home exhausted.